From Arolla to Zermatt Part 1

This is the first part of a trilogy. It tells the story of a six day odyssey in the Swiss Alps with two close friends, one of whom is a professional photographer. Marco had been comissioned to take a series of photos for a touring book, and other photos for the Swiss Tourism Board which comprised part of the famous Chamonix – Zermatt trail. Since he needed to take numerous cameras and uncountable quantities of photographic film (these cameras which take 180° shots don’t use digital equipment), plus he needed some models to add some human interest he asked Robi and myself to join him. For us it was a no boner, 6 days in the mountains, on skis, in some of the most beautiful mountains in the world, all paid for by the Swiss tourist board.
We all met up in Milano Central Station, at the agreed time, early one late spring morning. I must say we attracted some pretty strange looks – dressed up for the mountains, skis and boots strapped onto our large rucsacks while the Milanese commuters rushed to work, already displaying the best of the Spring/Summer fashion collection. Jut enough time to purchase rail tickets for Brig in Switzerland, a walk down the platform and we were bound for Switzerland. As we arrived in Brig we already looked more like part of the scenery and we quickly found the local “post” bus which would take us to Arolla.
The early afternoon found us in the small ski resort of Arolla. Boots and skis on our feet, climbing skins under the skis and rucsacks on our backs. The walk up to the mountain hut (Cabanne de Dix – 2928m) through the Pas des Chevres (Goat Pass), which would serve us our first resting point would only take us a few hours. The rest of the evening was spent in small chat, anticipating the great days in front of us, while we listened to the babble of German voices around us, an occassional French voice was heard but we wouldn’t hear anymore Italian except for our own voices for the rest of the trip.
The next morning found us in front of the hut, applying the thawed out skins to the bottom of our frozen skis, while the sun struggled to make it’s appearance behind the scudding clouds. It didn’t look like it was going to be a good day for ski-touring, or for photography, but we had a schedule to stick to so we headed out across the glacier towards our first objective of the day, the Pigne D’Arolla. Leaving the towering Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3870m) on our right we quickly gained the slopes of the Pigne. A beautiful pyramid with perfect skiing slopes. Sweating under the heavy rucsacks we climbed rapidly, leaving the majority of other skiiers behind us and by 10 o’clock we were already on the top of the peak – 3790m. Despite the clouds and grey skies we had a beautiful 360° view, mountains and glaciers in every direction. Unfortunately the light was not good for photography, so after a brief rest we removed the skins, tightened our boots and ski-bindings and set off down the other side. The surface of the snow was a little icy at first but we soon reached some better slopes where we could enjoy the sensation of curving and speeding down the immaculate white slopes. A couple of hours later we had already reached the Cabanne des Vignettes (3160m) our second resting point.
The next day found us traversing the Glacier du Mont Collon under blue but windy skies. Our rucasacs were heavier than the previous day since we had picked up supplies which would see us through the next two days, and one night to be spent in a bivouac hut. Here you can see Roberto and myself as we walk across this large glaciated area. Our path took us through a wide gap between Mont Collon 3637m and Petit Mont Collon 3556m and then upwards towards the Becca d’Oren where we briefly passed back into Italy. The slopes of this mountain are ideal for skiing so we spent a few hours going up and down the slopes while Marco snapped photos of us. The mountain which can be seen in the background is L’Eveque (The Bishop) 3716m. As the afternoon drew on we traversed back into Switzerland through the Col Collon and descended down across the Haut Glacier d’Arolla towards the bivouac hut which would serve as our base for the night. Inside we found the hut already occupied by quite a number of other skiers but we quickly found a space and three bunks for ourselves. A frugal meal, some conversation with the other occupants who are all heading the same way as us tomorrow, but they will be in Zermatt by the evening, whereas we won’t arrive there for another two days due to our various photographic appointments.
We are the last to leave the hut the next morning. Todays photographs will all be in the late afternoon and early evening on top of the Tete Blanche so there is no need to hurry. We pay for this laziness in the heat and blinding reflection of sun on white snow during the early afternoon, as we slog our way across the Haut Glacier de Tsa de Tsan bound for the Col des Bouquetins and from there to the top of Tete Blanche 3710m. When we finally reach the top we lose ourselves in an orgy of photographs. The view is amazing. All around us we can see mountain peaks and there in the distance the king of all of them – the Matterhorn. His pointed crown points to the sky. Close up the mountain is a disintegrating heap of limestone but it is exactly this which has given it the classical pyramidal shape and why countless thousands of mountaineers have found glory or defeat upon its flanks. From a distance it is magnificent, and alone on top of our mountain we contemplate its beauty and majesty.
After shooting the final photos in the setting sun light we ski down the other side and direct our skis towards the Cabanne de Bertol 3311m where we arrive in the dark. Tomorrow we shall ski under the Matterhorn and then onwards to Zermatt.