Does that look like a beautiful beach with just one pair of footprints? Well yes it does and guess who those footprints belong to. Of course, they’re mine. I was enjoying one of the most transcendental experiences of my life. A whole, incredibly beautiful beach and it’s all mine. Actually no, my friend and commercial agent for Latin America, Paul, is lying like a bloated whale on another part of the beach and if I look right up to the other end I can just about make out two or three other people.
This is Praia do Americano on the Brazilian island of Fernando de Noronha. We had just spent three days working in the Brazilian city of Recife and had decided to spend the weekend on this beautiful island about 350 kilometres from the coast. Actually you can’t just decide – you have to book some time in advance as there are only two flights a day. Just as well considering that the island itself is only 10 kilometres long and 3,5 kilometres at its maximum width (total area 18km2). The total population, excluding tourists is 2,000 people. The island is a protectorate of UNESCO due to its unique flora, fauna and geology.
The island was first discovered in 1501 by a Portuguese explorere Fernao de Noronha but has changed hands numerous times in it’s history. From 1534 to 1556 it was under English control, 1556 to 1612 French. There was a Dutch invasion in 1628, followed by a Spanish – Portuguese one just two years later. The Dutch again in 1635 and twenty years later in 1655 back came the Portuguese. It was later left disinhabited until re-discovered by the French East Indies Company in 1736. In 1737 the portuguese decided that they had had enough- kicked out the French and built ten forts around the island – ten forts in no more than 25 kilometres of coastline!! – they certainly weren’t taking any chances. Since then the island has remained as part of the Brazilian territories, first under Portuguese rule and later as part of the Republic. During world war 2 it was transformed into a penal settlement for both political and normal prisoners. Since 1988 it is no longer a settlement and has become part of the Brazilian state of Pernambuco.
Arriving on an island is always a mystical experience for me and this was no exception. An hours flight over the Atlantic and then suddenly this miniscule island is below you. The plane banks steeply to the left, straightens up and points directly towards the only flat part of the island in between two hilly areas. Engines roaring and echoing against the slopes of the hills and without any fuss the plane is rolling along the runway. After having paid our $22 a day tourist tax (quite right – UNESCO has to get its money from somewhere) we grab our bags and take the first pick-up truck directed towards our Pousada. Half an hour later we are sitting on a veranda enjoying the sunset and a well deserved caipirinha.
The next morning we went down to the port of Santo Antonio nice and early as we had been recommended to do and arranged for a morning boat trip.
The view of the island from the sea was amazing and we took it all in as we chatted with the the captain who defined himself as the pirate – look at the picture and who can fault him.
The highlight of this boat trip was to see the dolphins. I was expecting to see them but as the captain slowed down the boat and they suddenly surfaced all around the boat I couldn’t believe it. Adults, pups, playful youngsters – whole families of dolphins surrounded us.
We must have observed them for about five minutes but the best was to come. As the captain brought the speed of the boat back up to full power the largest of the dolphins raced under the bows of the boat, speeding from one side to the other as they strove to stay ahead of the vessel in a watery version of tag. What incredible creatures!
The afternoon was spent lounging on the beach of Praia do Americano, bathing and snorkelling in the warm sea, observing fish and even one sea tortoise.
To end a perfect day here is the sun as it descends into the Atlantic Ocean.
Priceless!
This is Praia do Americano on the Brazilian island of Fernando de Noronha. We had just spent three days working in the Brazilian city of Recife and had decided to spend the weekend on this beautiful island about 350 kilometres from the coast. Actually you can’t just decide – you have to book some time in advance as there are only two flights a day. Just as well considering that the island itself is only 10 kilometres long and 3,5 kilometres at its maximum width (total area 18km2). The total population, excluding tourists is 2,000 people. The island is a protectorate of UNESCO due to its unique flora, fauna and geology.
The island was first discovered in 1501 by a Portuguese explorere Fernao de Noronha but has changed hands numerous times in it’s history. From 1534 to 1556 it was under English control, 1556 to 1612 French. There was a Dutch invasion in 1628, followed by a Spanish – Portuguese one just two years later. The Dutch again in 1635 and twenty years later in 1655 back came the Portuguese. It was later left disinhabited until re-discovered by the French East Indies Company in 1736. In 1737 the portuguese decided that they had had enough- kicked out the French and built ten forts around the island – ten forts in no more than 25 kilometres of coastline!! – they certainly weren’t taking any chances. Since then the island has remained as part of the Brazilian territories, first under Portuguese rule and later as part of the Republic. During world war 2 it was transformed into a penal settlement for both political and normal prisoners. Since 1988 it is no longer a settlement and has become part of the Brazilian state of Pernambuco.
Arriving on an island is always a mystical experience for me and this was no exception. An hours flight over the Atlantic and then suddenly this miniscule island is below you. The plane banks steeply to the left, straightens up and points directly towards the only flat part of the island in between two hilly areas. Engines roaring and echoing against the slopes of the hills and without any fuss the plane is rolling along the runway. After having paid our $22 a day tourist tax (quite right – UNESCO has to get its money from somewhere) we grab our bags and take the first pick-up truck directed towards our Pousada. Half an hour later we are sitting on a veranda enjoying the sunset and a well deserved caipirinha.
The next morning we went down to the port of Santo Antonio nice and early as we had been recommended to do and arranged for a morning boat trip.
The view of the island from the sea was amazing and we took it all in as we chatted with the the captain who defined himself as the pirate – look at the picture and who can fault him.The highlight of this boat trip was to see the dolphins. I was expecting to see them but as the captain slowed down the boat and they suddenly surfaced all around the boat I couldn’t believe it. Adults, pups, playful youngsters – whole families of dolphins surrounded us.
We must have observed them for about five minutes but the best was to come. As the captain brought the speed of the boat back up to full power the largest of the dolphins raced under the bows of the boat, speeding from one side to the other as they strove to stay ahead of the vessel in a watery version of tag. What incredible creatures!The afternoon was spent lounging on the beach of Praia do Americano, bathing and snorkelling in the warm sea, observing fish and even one sea tortoise.
To end a perfect day here is the sun as it descends into the Atlantic Ocean.
Priceless!
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